SeafanEmergencies

Setup path, stage 5

Live rock or dry rock, and sand or bare bottom

Rock is where most of the filtering bacteria live; sand is a home for burrowers and a trap for detritus. Choose with your eyes open about pests, phosphate and time.

Last checked . How we check

What do you need for this stage?

  • Rock (dry, or cured live rock)
  • Aragonite sand, if you are using sand
  • Reef-safe putty or cement if you are building a structure
  • Phosphate test kit (for dry rock)
  • A bucket for rinsing

Should I use live rock or dry rock?

Live rock and dry rock
ItemDry rockLive rock
PestsNoneCan bring aiptasia, mantis shrimp, crabs and nuisance algae
Cycle timeAbout 4 to 6 weeks with bottled bacteria (typical)About 2 to 4 weeks, sometimes faster (typical)
Watch forSome rock leaches phosphate; very clean starts can favour dinoflagellatesDie-off on arrival can spike ammonia
ShapingEasy to build with cement before waterMust stay wet
Cycle times are keeper and vendor reports, not measured.

Keepers advise soaking dry rock in RO/DI for a week and testing the water for phosphate before use (typical). BRS links tanks with near-zero nutrients to dinoflagellates, which is why very clean dry-rock tanks sometimes struggle early.

Sand bed or bare bottom?

BRS calls sand the more forgiving choice for beginners: it hosts bacteria, pods and clean-up crew, looks natural and is needed by sand-sleeping wrasses and burrowing gobies. It traps detritus if neglected and blows around in strong flow. Bare bottom makes nutrient export easy and suits high-flow SPS tanks, but it matures more slowly and cannot house sand-dependent fish. See sand bed or bare bottom for the full comparison.

A shallow bed of about 2.5 to 5 cm is the common choice. A deep sand bed is usually defined as about 10 cm or more of fine sand (typical). Red Sea notes that fresh aragonite surfaces can take up calcium and alkalinity, so expect small early drops.

How do I build the aquascape?

  • Build dry, outside the tank if you can, and use putty or cement for anything that could topple.
  • Stand rock on the glass, then add sand around it, so burrowing fish cannot undermine it.
  • Leave space between rock and glass for flow and a cleaning magnet.
  • Open structures beat walls: flow should pass through and behind the rock.
  • Leave flat spots at several heights for corals that need low, medium and high light.

Rinse the sand in a bucket until the water runs nearly clear to avoid days of cloudy water.

What are the steps, in order?

  1. Choose dry or live rock and sand or bare bottom.
  2. For dry rock, soak a week and test the water for phosphate.
  3. Build the aquascape, rock first, sand after.
  4. Push each piece gently; anything that moves needs cement.
  5. Fill with the salt water from stage 4 and run the pumps.
  6. Look for dead spots behind the rock.

Your checklist

Tick items as you go. Ticks are saved in this browser only and fill the depth gauge.

0 of 6 done for stage 5. Saved in this browser only.

What test must pass before moving on?

Before you start the cycle:

  • Rockwork does not move when pushed.
  • Salinity and temperature still at target after the rock went in.
  • For dry rock, the soaking water phosphate is not still rising.

What are the common mistakes?

  • Live rock straight from the shop with no look for pests.
  • Stacking rock on top of sand.
  • A wall of rock against the back glass with no flow behind it.
  • Unrinsed sand clouding the water for days.
  • Adding live rock after the cycle, which restarts it.

Where do sources disagree?

Where sources disagree
TopicWhat sources sayOur reading
When to add rock
  • Most guides: before the cycle
  • One UK step guide adds live rock after cycling
Before. Rock added later carries die-off and restarts the cycle.
Dry rock curing
  • Some keepers: no curing needed
  • Others: soak for weeks or months and test phosphate
Soak a week and test. Cure longer only if phosphate keeps rising.
Sand or bare bottom
  • BRS: sand is more forgiving for beginners
  • SPS keepers: bare bottom for flow and export
Sand, about 2.5 to 5 cm, for a first mixed reef.

See also: Aiptasia, the pest anemone.

Sources

  1. BRS, sand versus bare bottomPublished 23 December 2024. Read 21 October 2026, read in full.
  2. Red Sea, Foundation testing and supplementing manual (v21a)Published 2021. Read 21 October 2026, read in full.
  3. Red Sea, Complete Reef Care four-part manual (V24A)Published March 2024. Read 21 October 2026, read in full.
  4. BRS, high versus low nutrientsPublished 25 August 2025. Read 21 October 2026, read in full.
  5. Practical Fishkeeping, beginner’s guide to reef tanks: choosing a marine aquariumRead 21 October 2026, search summary only.
  6. Charterhouse Aquatics, how to set up a marine aquarium step by stepPublished 6 July 2026. Read 21 October 2026, read in full.

Figures from sources read as a search summary only are shown as typical figures: check them before you rely on them. Found a mistake? Tell us how to fix it.